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Every September, the lanes of Kumartuli in Kolkata come alive with the sound of chisels, the scent of wet clay, and the quiet anticipation of Durga Puja. For over 300 years, this riverside neighborhood has been the heart of clay idol making in Kolkata, where generations of artisans have sculpted faith itself. On a humid morning, I stepped into one of these narrow lanes to witness how the Durga Puja idols are brought to life.
The Lanes of Kumartuli and the Smell of Clay
Inside a modest workshop, I met artisan Sanjib Pal, his palms smeared with river clay as he pressed it firmly onto a bamboo frame. Around us stood half-finished idols: skeletal straw structures waiting for form, and majestic shapes already nearing completion.
“You make them all here?” I asked.
“Yes, Didi,” he replied, smiling. “All of Kumartuli comes alive before Puja. For us, Ma Durga is not just a goddess—she is family. We create her with our hands, but also with our prayers.”
How Kumartuli Idols Are Made Step by Step
Sanjib explained the traditional idol-making process.
“First comes the kathamo—the skeleton made of bamboo and straw. Then we apply three layers of clay. The first is rough clay from the Hooghly riverbed, the second is finer, and the final layer is smooth, like silk. That gives Ma her flawless skin.”
The method has remained unchanged for centuries. His hands moved swiftly, echoing the muscle memory of generations who had done the same.
Memories of Forefathers and Kumartuli’s History
As we spoke, Sanjib’s voice softened with pride. “My grandfather, Madhab Pal, worked here in the 1930s. He sculpted the idol for the Shobhabazar Rajbari Puja in 1938. Back then, Durga Puja was still centered in the houses of zamindars. He told me the whole neighborhood came to watch when the eyes were painted. He used to say, ‘We don’t just make idols—we invite Ma home.’”
Indeed, history records that Kumartuli potters migrated here in the late 17th century, when Kolkata grew under the British East India Company. Over time, this colony became the center for Durga idol workshops, supplying pujas in Kolkata and beyond.
The Sacred Rituals—Punya Mati and Chokkhu Daan
I noticed a small bag of soil in the corner and asked, “Is that the sacred earth?”
Sanjib nodded. “Yes, punya mati. Tradition says we mix in soil from the doorstep of a sex worker in Sonagachi. My grandfather would walk barefoot to collect it. Without it, Ma Durga is incomplete. It means she belongs to everyone—even those society rejects.”
Soon, another artisan lifted his brush for the most delicate task: painting the goddess’s eyes. The room fell silent.
“This is chokkhu daan—the gifting of eyes,” Sanjib whispered. “Until now, she is clay. With her gaze, she becomes alive. My father used to tremble every year at this moment.”
As the brush curved into an almond shape, Durga’s fierce yet compassionate eyes seemed to look straight into me.
Kumartuli Today: Local Tradition, Global Reach
Kumartuli has grown far beyond Kolkata. “We start preparing right after Rath Yatra,” Sanjib said. “Now our idols travel worldwide—London, New Jersey, Singapore. We pack them in wooden crates and ship them by sea and air. But no matter where she goes, the clay is always from Kumartuli.”
Yet challenges remain. Rising costs of clay, straw, and paint, and the constant threat of Hooghly floods weigh heavily on artisans. “Still,” he added, “we wait for Puja. For us, Ma is like a daughter. We bring her home, worship her, and after five days, we send her back to the river. It breaks our heart, but it is the cycle of life.”
Faith Sculpted in Clay
As I left the workshop, the lanes of Kumartuli buzzed with apprentices hammering crowns, painting ornaments, and attaching tridents. The smell of drying clay lingered in the air.
Later, when I would join the crowds in glittering pandals and hear the thunder of dhaak drums, I knew I would see Durga differently. Behind her radiant face, I would remember Kumartuli—the artisans’ clay-streaked palms, the memories of forefathers, and the sacred soil mixed with river mud.
Because here, in this corner of Kolkata, faith is not only worshipped. It is sculpted.
