Walking Through Time in Kolhapuri Chappals

 

A pair of Kolhapuri chappals 

It was a hot afternoon in Kolhapur when I first noticed them – rows of earthy brown sandals neatly stacked outside a small shop. The air smelled faintly of tanned leather, and the shopkeeper smiled knowingly as I lingered.

“Kolhapuri chappals, madam, they’ll outlast any shoe you’ve ever owned,” he said with pride.

These sandals are not just footwear; they are a story woven in leather. For over 800 years, artisans in Kolhapur, Maharashtra, have been handcrafting them with meticulous care. Using vegetable-tanned leather, each pair is cut, stitched, and shaped entirely by hand, without a single nail. The result? Footwear that is durable, eco-friendly, and uniquely beautiful.

I picked up a pair – surprisingly light, yet firm. What struck me was the detailing: intricate designs on the straps, tiny patterns pressed into the sole. They looked simple, but there was elegance in that simplicity.

Kolhapuri chappals were once made to withstand the harsh, dry landscape of Maharashtra. Farmers wore them in fields; travelers trusted them on long dusty roads. Over time, they became symbols of rustic resilience. Today, they’ve traveled far beyond their hometown, seen on fashion runways and paired with everything from sarees and kurtas to jeans and dresses.

The shopkeeper chuckled as I tried them on.

“They’ll take a few days to mold to your feet,” he explained, “but once they do, you’ll never want to take them off.”

And that’s the real magic of Kolhapuri chappals. They’re not just something you wear – they grow with you, carrying stories of tradition, craftsmanship, and timeless style.

Bhagabatpur Crocodile Project: A Hidden Gem of the Sundarbans

 

If you’re planning a Sundarbans trip and want to experience something beyond tiger trails, the Bhagabatpur Crocodile Project deserves a spot on your itinerary. This is the only crocodile breeding center in West Bengal, famous for housing and conserving the formidable saltwater crocodile.

What to Expect

Watch crocodiles at every stage of life—from tiny, blinking hatchlings to massive adults basking in the sun.

Learn about the conservation efforts that began in the 1970s and continue to protect the delicate mangrove ecosystem.

Climb up the watchtower for panoramic views of the Matla River estuary, one of the most scenic spots in the region.

The surrounding 

Matla bridge

How to Reach

1. By Train (Kolkata → Namkhana)

From Sealdah Station (Kolkata), take a local EMU train to Namkhana.

Distance: ~105 km.

Travel time: ~3.5 hours.

Frequency: Multiple local trains daily (fare around ₹30–₹40).

From Namkhana Railway Station, you need to reach the ferry ghat for onward boat rides.

2. By Bus (Kolkata → Namkhana)

Direct SBSTC/Private buses run from Dharmatala/Esplanade Bus Stand (Kolkata) to Namkhana.

Distance: ~110 km.

Travel time: ~3.5–4 hours.

Fare: ~₹100–₹150.

Get down at Namkhana Bus Terminus and proceed to the Namkhana ferry ghat.

3. Boat Journey (Namkhana → Bhagabatpur)

From Namkhana ghat, hire a motorboat to reach Bhagabatpur Crocodile Project via the Hatania-Doania creek and the Matla estuary.

Travel time: ~2 hours by boat (varies with tides and boat type).

Boats are usually arranged through tour operators or via Forest Department permissions.

Boat rides themselves are a treat, winding through mangrove creeks and open waterways.

Crocodiles

Ferry ghat

Directions

From collection to release

Crocodile eggs

Best Time to Visit

November to March is ideal—pleasant weather, clear skies, and calmer tides.

Monsoons are best avoided as heavy rains and rough waters may restrict boat movement.

Entry & Permissions

Entry permits are required, usually arranged through the West Bengal Forest Department at the entrance gate or via local tour operators.

Always check with your operator beforehand, as timings and access can vary.

Travel Tips

Carry binoculars for spotting birds and estuarine life along the ride.

Keep sunscreen, hats, and light cotton wear handy—summers can be humid.

Respect the rules: this is a conservation zone, so no littering or loud noises.

Why Visit?

Bhagabatpur offers something rare—a chance to see the Sundarbans’ most ancient predator up close, while also soaking in the untouched beauty of the mangrove delta. It’s both an educational stop and a breathtaking experience for travelers seeking a deeper connection with the wild.

The legend of Dakshin Rai, the deity who rules Sunderbans

 My husband wanted to show me something I never heard before.A fearful deity of the Sundarbans, Dakshin Rai, highly revered by the local people whose sustenance revolves around the treacherous forests of Sundarbans.

As we reached the temple in Dhapdhapi, a village in Baruipur block in South 24 parganas, West Bengal, I could not miss the two big tiger statues guarding the temple gates.

Tigers guarding the temple 

At the altar sits Dakshin Rai, in a commanding position on his ornate wooden throne, one knee slightly raised with a gun in his hand.His dress is extraordinary, he wears a closed neck jacket, white dhoti and big head gear.

The temple purohit, also a present day descendent of Dakshin Rai echoed the same as Arunava Bose, who wrote in Ghumchakkar’s Diary that worship at Dhapdhapi has ancient roots—perhaps more than 650 years—and that today’s towering seven-foot statue, complete with large whiskers, a jacket, dhoti, and a firearm, sits in a temple dating back to 1908. He also details how devotees perform special pujas at 1 AM during Poila Magh, with prasad distributed the next morning.

The idol of Dakshin Rai

According to the fable passed down through generations, Dakshin Rai was once a powerful zamindar who ruled these lands. His arrogance grew so immense that he wished to subdue the jungle itself. With tantric powers, he transformed into a majestic tiger—his preferred form—and demanded worship from the people. Some say he is the tiger incarnate, while others believe he is the spirit who commands every beast in the Sundarbans. Either way, no one in Dhapdhapi will dare step into the forest without first whispering his name.

One elder woman, who came for an evening darshan , leaned in to tell me:

“Dakshin Rai is not cruel, child. He only tests us. If your heart is clean, he lets you return from the forest. If not…” She paused.I did not need her to finish the sentence.

Temple indoor 

The stories here are intertwined with the wider lore of the Sundarbans. The tiger god is often mentioned alongside Bonbibi, the forest goddess who protects humans. Their eternal duel is the very balance of life in this fragile ecosystem. Where Bonbibi is mercy, Dakshin Rai is trial. Together, they remind every human who steps into the wilderness that survival is never a given.

This portrayal, echoed in Rangan Datta’s travel writing, frames Dakshin Rai as a fearsome force—neither wholly god nor demon, but something far more complex .

It’s a portrayal that pulses with primal dread, sharpening the line between myth and reality.The Sundarbans demand humility. Its tides erase and redraw boundaries daily. Its forests remind you how small you are. And Dakshin Rai—through the prayers whispered in Dhapdhapi, through the stories recorded by Rangan Datta, and Arunava Bose—embodies that truth. He is neither wholly god nor wholly demon. He is simply the jungle itself.

Clay Idol Making in Kumartuli: A First-Person Journey

 

Every September, the lanes of Kumartuli in Kolkata come alive with the sound of chisels, the scent of wet clay, and the quiet anticipation of Durga Puja. For over 300 years, this riverside neighborhood has been the heart of clay idol making in Kolkata, where generations of artisans have sculpted faith itself. On a humid morning, I stepped into one of these narrow lanes to witness how the Durga Puja idols are brought to life.

The Lanes of Kumartuli and the Smell of Clay

Inside a modest workshop, I met artisan Sanjib Pal, his palms smeared with river clay as he pressed it firmly onto a bamboo frame. Around us stood half-finished idols: skeletal straw structures waiting for form, and majestic shapes already nearing completion.

“You make them all here?” I asked.

“Yes, Didi,” he replied, smiling. “All of Kumartuli comes alive before Puja. For us, Ma Durga is not just a goddess—she is family. We create her with our hands, but also with our prayers.”

How Kumartuli Idols Are Made Step by Step

Sanjib explained the traditional idol-making process.

“First comes the kathamo—the skeleton made of bamboo and straw. Then we apply three layers of clay. The first is rough clay from the Hooghly riverbed, the second is finer, and the final layer is smooth, like silk. That gives Ma her flawless skin.”

The method has remained unchanged for centuries. His hands moved swiftly, echoing the muscle memory of generations who had done the same.

Memories of Forefathers and Kumartuli’s History

As we spoke, Sanjib’s voice softened with pride. “My grandfather, Madhab Pal, worked here in the 1930s. He sculpted the idol for the Shobhabazar Rajbari Puja in 1938. Back then, Durga Puja was still centered in the houses of zamindars. He told me the whole neighborhood came to watch when the eyes were painted. He used to say, ‘We don’t just make idols—we invite Ma home.’”

Indeed, history records that Kumartuli potters migrated here in the late 17th century, when Kolkata grew under the British East India Company. Over time, this colony became the center for Durga idol workshops, supplying pujas in Kolkata and beyond.

The Sacred Rituals—Punya Mati and Chokkhu Daan

I noticed a small bag of soil in the corner and asked, “Is that the sacred earth?”

Sanjib nodded. “Yes, punya mati. Tradition says we mix in soil from the doorstep of a sex worker in Sonagachi. My grandfather would walk barefoot to collect it. Without it, Ma Durga is incomplete. It means she belongs to everyone—even those society rejects.”

Soon, another artisan lifted his brush for the most delicate task: painting the goddess’s eyes. The room fell silent.

“This is chokkhu daan—the gifting of eyes,” Sanjib whispered. “Until now, she is clay. With her gaze, she becomes alive. My father used to tremble every year at this moment.”

As the brush curved into an almond shape, Durga’s fierce yet compassionate eyes seemed to look straight into me.

Kumartuli Today: Local Tradition, Global Reach

Kumartuli has grown far beyond Kolkata. “We start preparing right after Rath Yatra,” Sanjib said. “Now our idols travel worldwide—London, New Jersey, Singapore. We pack them in wooden crates and ship them by sea and air. But no matter where she goes, the clay is always from Kumartuli.”

Yet challenges remain. Rising costs of clay, straw, and paint, and the constant threat of Hooghly floods weigh heavily on artisans. “Still,” he added, “we wait for Puja. For us, Ma is like a daughter. We bring her home, worship her, and after five days, we send her back to the river. It breaks our heart, but it is the cycle of life.”

Faith Sculpted in Clay

As I left the workshop, the lanes of Kumartuli buzzed with apprentices hammering crowns, painting ornaments, and attaching tridents. The smell of drying clay lingered in the air.

Later, when I would join the crowds in glittering pandals and hear the thunder of dhaak drums, I knew I would see Durga differently. Behind her radiant face, I would remember Kumartuli—the artisans’ clay-streaked palms, the memories of forefathers, and the sacred soil mixed with river mud.

Because here, in this corner of Kolkata, faith is not only worshipped. It is sculpted.

Purulia: A Journey into Stillness and Colour

 

I still remember the first breath of air I took in Purulia. It wasn’t heavy with city dust or rushed by noise—it was slow, fragrant, and filled with the quiet pulse of nature. The land itself seemed to whisper that time here flows differently, inviting me to let go of hurry and simply exist.

Purulia unfolds like a painting in earthy tones—rolling hills softened by sal and palash trees, patches of red soil glowing under the sun, and tribal villages where colours are stitched into daily life. Walking through one of these villages felt like stepping inside a dream. The huts, painted in bright blues, ochres, and greens, stood adorned with hand-drawn motifs that told stories of harvest, festivals, and gods. Each wall was both home and canvas, carrying the pride of a culture rooted deeply in the land.

                                                Colourful tribal huts 

Colourful tribal huts 

More huts

The pace of life here was unhurried. I saw women weaving baskets in doorways while children played barefoot in the dust, their laughter carrying farther than any horn or machine ever could. Men rested under banyan trees, speaking in gentle cadences as though even their words respected the stillness around them. As a visitor, I felt strangely at home—Purulia doesn’t overwhelm, it embraces.

                  children selling handicrafts to visitors 

Temples rose here and there, some modest, some ancient, their stones worn smooth by countless hands folded in prayer. I visited the Panchet Hill temples, where myth seems to rest in the quiet shade, and Ayodhya Hills where shrines peeked from forests as if nature itself had hidden them away. Standing before these places, I felt the hum of faith that has outlived generations, carrying both serenity and mystery.

Garpanchokot Terracotta temple 

Temple ruins 

But what delighted me most were the evenings. As the sun set behind the Ajodhya hills, painting the sky with orange and gold, the villages slowly lit up with folk songs and dances. The Chhau dancers, with their vibrant masks, leapt like flames in the dark, telling epics through movement. It was art born not for museums, but for life itself.

Lake

Mask making 

Jaggery making 

GI tagged masks of Purulia 

Quarry

Purulia is not a place you simply “visit.” It’s a rhythm you learn, a gentleness you carry back within yourself. For the traveller hungry for spectacle, it offers landscapes, temples, and art. But for the soul weary of noise, it offers something rarer—time that flows softly, like a river you can sit beside forever.

And as I left, I knew Purulia wasn’t behind me. It had settled quietly inside me, like a song I’ll never forget.

Important information 

🌿 Purulia Travel Guide from Kolkata

✨ Why Visit Purulia?

Purulia, in West Bengal, is a treasure chest of hills, forests, tribal culture, ancient temples, and folk art. It’s where slow-paced village life meets colourful traditions, and where nature lovers and seekers of peace find their escape.

🚆 How to Reach from Kolkata

By Train:

Board a train from Howrah or Sealdah to Purulia Junction (approx. 6–7 hrs).

Popular trains: Rupashi Bangla Express, Purulia Express, Aranyak Express.

By Road:

Distance: ~ 290 km.

Duration: 6–7 hrs via Durgapur Expressway & NH19.

Roads are scenic, especially as you approach Ajodhya Hills.

By Air:

Closest airport: Ranchi (90 km). From there, hire a cab to Purulia.

🌄 Top Attractions in Purulia

1. Ajodhya Hills & Forests

Stunning sunrise and sunset views.

Trekking trails, waterfalls like Bamni Falls and Turga Falls.

Great for camping and nature photography.

2. Tribal Villages

Painted mud huts in vibrant blues and reds.

Experience traditional crafts, simple living, and warm hospitality.

3. Temples & Sacred Spots

Panchet Hill Temples – ancient shrines with mythological roots.

Joychandi Pahar – temple atop a hill, also famous for rock climbing.

Cheliama Village – terracotta temples & old structures with intricate carvings.

4. Folk Culture & Festivals

Chhau Dance – colourful masked dance-drama, best seen during festivals.

Local fairs (especially Charak and Poush Mela) showcase crafts, food, and music.

5. Saheb Bandh Lake

A serene water body in Purulia town, great for birdwatching.

🍲 What to Eat

Local Delights:

Handia (traditional rice beer).

Chhatu’r Dalna (gram flour curry).

Posto’r Bora (poppy seed fritters).

Freshly cooked tribal meals—simple, earthy, unforgettable.

Where to Stay

Ajodhya Hills Eco Resorts – cottages amidst greenery.

WBFDC Nature Resorts – budget-friendly forest stays.

Local Guesthouses & Homestays – authentic experience of rural life.

🕰️ Best Time to Visit

October to March – Cool weather, perfect for trekking & sightseeing.

Spring (Feb–March) – Forests glow with red Palash blossoms, Purulia at its most photogenic.T

Travel Tips

Carry cash, ATMs are limited in remote areas.

Respect tribal customs when visiting villages.

Pack light but include trekking shoes & warm clothes for winters.

Don’t miss sunrise at Ajodhya Hills – it’s soul-stirring.